For years, Sushi Ran in Sausalito has reigned as the undisputed champion of sushi in Marin (and one of the best sushi bars in the greater San Francisco area.) While Sushi Ran remains outstanding, Sushi 69 (69 Center Street, San Anselmo, 415-459-6969) serves fish that is every bit as good as the freshest fish I have had straight from the Tsukiji market in Tokyo.
Somewhat hidden between the San Anselmo main bus stop and San Anselmo Avenue, Sushi 69 has a sushi counter that seats about eight and table seating for maybe another 30 people. Hiroyuki Makino reigns over the sushi bar with a level of care that usually comes only from a sushi chef trained in the traditional methods and customs of Japan, as Hiro was.
The regular menu is supplemented daily by a sheet indicating fish that was delivered fresh from Tokyo. Hiro seems to enjoy offering some less familiar seafood along with standard fare such as yellowtail, various kinds of tuna and shellfish. Although the emphasis is on traditional nigiri sushi and sashimi, the menu offers about two dozen American-style sushi rolls. One that I enjoyed was “Hiro’s Roll,” which combined spicy tuna, avocado, fresh salmon and rice in a roll accented with a light ponzu sauce ($12.) Other rolls range from simple cucumber or burdock rolls ($4 each) to more elaborate favorites like Rock’n Roll (eel, avocado, cucumber and tobiko – $6) and a Spider Roll (soft-shell crab, avocado, cucumber, and tobiko – $10.)
On my first visit, Hiro served Hamachi Carpaccio (pictured), generous slices of buttery fresh yellowtail, garnished with a slice of jalapeño pepper, tobiko and shredded daikon radish. I started with a trio of salads: traditional seaweed salad, hijiki and a serving of wakame, radish, and carrot wrapped in cucumber. But the most spectacular morsel that reached my mouth that night was the sweetest, softest, most succulent piece of fresh raw scallop that I have ever had. Better even that the fresh-killed scallop that were standard fare at my local sushi bar when I lived in Maryland.
All in all, Sushi 69 is unquestionably a winner, and I wish I had been there before. With sushi combinations starting at $15 and some of the freshest fish imaginable, this is going to be one of my regular stops from now on.
Sushi 69 is open for lunch (Noon-3 PM) Wednesday-Sunday, dinner Tuesday-Sunday starting at 5:00 PM.
